Down the Vltava river - a guide to the most interesting places
or "Several pieces of advice on how to manage the natural element and not disturb the gods of the Vltava"
Our motto :
What won't kill us, makes us stronger.
Where others leave off, we begin .
Every wave won't kill you.
You will not drink the whole river .
In the following lines we do not wish to compete with the book Guide to Vltava, or appear to rethink and reformulate what has already been thought of and formulated. All we want is just to sum up and complete the above mentioned literature with several minor discoveries made by our research-development team in the stream of the ever flowing sector!
In our region the Vltava is divided into these passable sections :
Horní Vltava (from Lenora to Nová Pec)
Lipno Dam
Lipno dike - Paper mill Loučovice
Paper factory Loučovice - level tank Vyšší Brod
Dolní Vltava: Vyšší Brod - Český Krumlov
Dolní Vltava: Český Krumlov
Dolní Vltava: anything beyond Český Krumlov
Horní Vltava :
from Lenora 396 r. km - via Soumarský bridge 390 r. km - to Nová Pec 363,6 r. km
The upper part of the river called Horní Vltava before the Lipno Dam is of quite a different character than the lower part. The section below Lenora (765 m above sea level) with quiet flowing water, many bends, calms, and little pools (occasionally supplemented by small rapids), and the magnificent Šumava nature with beautiful trees and peat-bogs, are a balsam to the soul. The river seems to live and changes its appearance every day. It looks for new beds and flows around new obstacles. With a normal water flow, there is no danger. But it is not possible to rely on your memories from last year. Watch for fallen trees in the water.
This is a part of the river where you cannot orientate yourself with a compass. Be prepared for the fact that you will see some villages and places more than once. The sun will seem to have gone mad and shine from the front and from the back. I recommend prolonging the journey up to Lenora if the water level is high enough. It is possible to camp in Lenora, by the Soumarský Bridge, and in Nová Pec (750 m above sea level). In case of emergency it is possible to leave the river on the left shore by the bridge near the village Pěkná (r. km 373,5) and to walk about 700 m to the first class road between Horní Planá and Volary.
It is possible to go down from Soumarský Bridge to Nová Pec in 6 hours at a leisurely pace. Please do not offend the defenders of the environment, otherwise it would be to the detriment of all the other water users. Remember the Status of the Vltava river, which provides for many conditions concerning protection of the environment (even though there are some I do not understand, like the prohibition of canoing in winter months, when the only ones who go are those who want to more than just pub crawl!)
(When the river is in spate and the wind blows with a speed of 100 km per hour, the journey can be over in three hours. I do not recommend that - in between the branches and trees, it can sometimes be a battle for survival. The river stops respecting its bed and runs straight to its target.)
If you wish to enjoy the upper parts of the river, do not go among the "madding crowd" during the summer holidays! The early spring and then fall, when Šumava is preparing for its winter sleep are equally beautiful times, and will clear your head from all the burdens of civilisation.
Water reservoir Lipno :
(from Nová Pec 363,8 r. km to the dike of the Lipno Dam 329,5 r. km)
If you have enough time, and strength, you can also try the Lipno. The water does not flow here, it stands still. There is a lot of it, and you have a long journey before of you.
Perhaps some bits of advice might help :
 | Do not risk the shortest way, keep close to the shore. |
| A black water surface predicts rain and wind, and meter-high waves are not only pub stories. |
| Follow the advice and behaviour of the boat fishermen - when they leave the water, you should too. |
| To sum up: Lipno takes people's lives as an annual tax. |
The dike of the Lipno Dam (329,5 r. km)
I confess this is a weir which I have not gone over yet.
The original bed under the Lipno Dam (the dike 329,5 r. km - the usual start of the water slalom route 329,4 r. km - the end of the rapids above the church of St. Prokop 327,5 r. km - weir at the Paper mill, the beginning of the rapids 326,1 r. km - Vrata 325,3 r. km - the end of the rapids, the beginning of the level reservoir Vyšší Brod 320,7 r. km - the dike of the level reservoir Vyšší Brod 319,1 r. km)
An interesting part of the river, not described in the water guide. From the time when the Lipno Dam was built, the water from the turbines has been led through an underground canal (the largest underground canal in the Republic at that time) to Vyšší Brod.
Straight under the concrete dike of the Lipno Dam (705 m above sea level) the natural water canal starts. During the Championships of the Republic, World championships and World Cups, dangerous water is allowed to run through the canal with great boulders, and the world's top racers put their boats on it. It is referred to as the "water of truth". One cannot train here, but a few hours before the race, here he who knows his ins and outs, he succeeds. The water flows through the original bed via Loučovice and Čertova stěna to the level tank above Vyšší Brod. This part of the river can be divided into the following four sections :
The racing water slalom route below the dike of the Dam
The section marked as WWIV, with cca 150 m WWV (extremely difficult water, rapids, whirls, knowledge of the terrain essential, terrain suitable only for experts and top level racers. The method of qualification changes, it decreases with the increase of the quality of the material and boats. These facts are basic information.)
The first part begins about 100 m from the sluice gates of the Lipno Dam and ends approximately at the place where the forest begins on the right shore. This part is virtually the same as the slalom route. If you are lucky enough, and you have the patience and determination, you can go through it after the last competitor finishes and before the water is turned off.
From the rapids part at the end of the slalom route to the calm above the church of St. Prokop 327,5 r. km.
A part of the river marked WWIV.
The second part begins immediately after the first one - it begins straight below the parking area, and ends on the "oil" (calm water) below the church of St. Prokop above the village Loučovice. At both ends it is accessible to cars for getting in and off the boats. Everybody can fight the water - ideal conditions for rafts or kayaks which finish on calm water. It is advisable to go down this section on a raft before trying the more difficult ones below Loučovice. Be aware of the times of the races. The slalom ends at the first part, but the racing route leads down to the church, sometimes even after the third part - above Vrata. The slalom of rafts takes place in the second part. A single tourist boat in the competitor's way can ruin his race and his entire year of preparation!!! The dates of the different races are available from the organisers.
Take advantage of the possibility to race in an open raft race. During the races it is possible to see 30 to 50 rafts on the water and on the roofs of cars. In all cases it is necessary to have a quality life jacket, a helmet, and tight clothes - neoprene is the best. Even this part of the river has cost some people their lives.
Weir at the Paper Mill, beginning of rapids 326,1 r. km - Vrata 325,3 r. km
The third part is separated from the second by about 2 km of "oil" (calm water) with small rapids in the middle. The section basically starts behind the iron stop on the lower end of Loučovice. Embarking is possible at the right shore near the garages. 100 m of calm water awaits you there. Behind the half metre weir, the water begins to flow. You will pass an iron bridge and go through a section about 150 m long, marked WWV. Behind it there is calm water with originally a great number of branches and trees (on the 10th of March 1998, when we controlled it, it was cut through, and for the time being was clearer) - here you can get off onto the shore and on to a road. Cca 200 m below this point, there is the famous gate (Vrata). I do not recommend continuing to the section below the gate, unless you have competently managed this section.
Loučovice "Vrata" 325,3 r. km - Čertova stěna cca 324 r. km - beginning of the level reservoir in Vyšší Brod 320,7 r. km - the dike of the level reservoir Vyšší Brod 319,1 r. km
Section Čertovy Proudy (Devil's Streams) in the older guides classified as WWVI - the ultimate limit of possibilities, a very difficult terrain - passable only with very high risks, extremely difficult water, rapids, whirls, the knowledge of the terrain necessary, terrain suitable only for experts and top racers.
In the fourth part it is possible to get on the boat 100 m beyond the gate by the road leading from Loučovice - Vyšší Brod. In addition to a helmet, a special life jacket with a rope, and suitable clothes, I also recommend neoprene gloves, and a spare paddle (it was very useful), maybe even spare underwear. He who hasn't gone would not understand - he who has will never forget. The beginning immediately brings a sense of excitement. On "calm" water between the reinforcement irons and remains of concrete blocks, you have to locate the gate, which is a four meter slope, at the end of which there is a sharp left turn with bushes and whirls, followed by a right turn with more whirls. Here you come to truly understand that water flows downhill. Over a distance of five kilometres it descends about 150 m. To start with you do not see more than 50 m in front of you. The whole journey is, in fact, a twenty minute battle with the water.
En route, there are only a few places at which you can stop. I recommend you do stop and have a good look at what is before you, especially in front of the famous Chink (Škvíra) - a narrow pass near the right shore, where many spectators gather to watch for blood! Before both the Chink and the Stairs (Schody), there is a good opportunity to park on shore. After the Stairs it is possible to leave the river on the left shore, to where you can come, by car, from the railway station Čertova Stěna. There also is the possibility to continue by the right stream through the trees and bushes and leave the river later, after about 500 m again on the left shore. Here you can see the road connecting the railway station Čertova Stěna and Vyšší Brod. If you decide to continue even further, it is possible to go on to the calm of the level reservoir Vyšší Brod. Here the hardship ends and normal touristist slavery starts again! On the calm water you can go straight to the dike above the camp in Vyšší Brod.
Some advice :
| Never sit on a raft on which the crew consists of beginners . |
| A quality helmet and life jacket are a essential! |
| Neoprene gloves are very useful for protecting the backs of your hands. |
| There has to be one person on a raft who gives the orders. |
| Try not to fall out of the raft. |
| If you do fall out, hold on to the raft as long as you can. |
| If you do not catch up, fight for yourself. |
| Try to hold your legs near your body and in front of it. Under water, try to protect your head with your hands. |
From Vyšší Brod 318,9 r. km via Rožmberk nad Vltavou - 308,7 r. km and on to Český Krumlov - 283,1 r. km
 |
The remaining beautiful kilometres of the river are summed up in the chart below, where I hope everybody will find the information they need.
Finally, please take the opportunity to complete this information with your own exceptional discoveries and feats, to help other visitors to the beautiful Vltava. We will be updating these pages regularly.
Ahoy!
E - mail : pouzar@ck.ipex.cz
Kilometer marker : 318,9
Locality :
under the dike of the Vyšší Brod reservoir
About the river :
access to the river from the camp
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
plenty of possibilities in Vyšší Brod
Access to the water by car :
from the camp and from the parking lot at the monastery
Campground :
AUTOCAMP Pod hrází
What to do while you're there :
Cistercian monastery in Vyšší Brod, Post museum
Notes :
Don't try to ride under the waterfall from the reservoir (drowning in 1997 !)
Kilometer marker : 317,9
Locality :
Weir u Bílého mlýna (at the white mill)
About the river :
weir
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
plenty of possibilities in Vyšší Brod
Access to the water by car :
150 meter walk through garden colonies
Campground :
no
What to do while you're there :
Cistercian monastery in Vyšší Brod, Post museum
Kilometer marker : 317,0 - 314,0
About the river :
quicker section with rapids
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
no
Access to the water by car :
no
Campground :
no
Kilometer marker : 314,95
Locality :
Weir Herbertov
About the river :
weir
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
no
Access to the water by car :
yes
Campground :
no
Kilometer marker : 314,95 - 314,4
Locality :
Herbertov
About the river :
man-made slalom route
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
no
Access to the water by car :
yes
Campground :
no
Notes :
difficult bit - keep distance, and careful when passing.
Kilometer marker : 312,6
Locality :
At the three squirrels (U tří veverek )
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
seasonal tents
Access to the water by car :
from the crossroads towards Kaplice, V. Brod and Rožmberk
Campground :
no
Kilometer marker : 309,0
Locality :
Rožmberk
About the river :
shallows
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
more possibilities in the town of Rožmberk nad Vltavou
Access to the water by car :
yes
Campground :
hotels, pensions
What to do while you're there :
castle, organ concerts in the church
Kilometer marker : 308,5
Locality :
weir Rožmberk
About the river :
the „weir retarder"
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
more possibilities in the town of Rožmberk nad Vltavou
Access to the water by car :
yes
Campground :
hotels, pensions
What to do while you're there :
castle, organ concerts in the church
Kilometer marker : 307,0
Locality :
below Rožmberk
About the river :
rapids
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
yes
Access to the water by car :
road uphill to the castle and afterwards at the fork, downhill to the camp
Campground :
Boater's Campground Rožmberk
Kilometer marker : 298,1
Locality :
pod Čeřínem (crossroad towards Větrná and Malšín)
About the river :
panel ford
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
seasonal at the campground, also U Fíka, and more
Access to the water by car :
from the left bank, for the river by car, or across the bridge below the Zátoň rectory, go right, and upstream about 3 km
Campground :
yes
What to do while you're there :
swim
Kilometer marker : 292,4
Locality :
Na Pískárně
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
yes
Access to the water by car :
yes
Campground :
Autocamp Na Pískárně - possible to sleep in cottages
What to do while you're there :
swim
Kilometer marker :290,2 - 288,2
Locality :
Dobrné - Větřní
About the river :
calm
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
no
Access to the water by car :
no
Campground :
no
Kilometer marker : 288,2
Locality :
Weir Větřní - papermill
About the river :
the „weir retarder"
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
no
Access to the water by car :
no
Campground :
no
Kilometer marker : 286,35
Locality :
Weir Spolí - under the scrawled cliffs
About the river :
weir
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
yes
Access to the water by car :
across Český Krumlov and Nové Spolí on the right shore
Campground :
Boater's Campground Spolí
Notes :
the only campground for Český Krumlov
Kilometer marker : 285,4
Locality :
Nové Spolí
About the river :
calm
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
yes
Access to the water by car :
across Český Krumlov and Nové Spolí on the right shore
Campground :
Boater's Campground Spolí
What to do while you're there :
swim, visit Český Krumlov
Notes :
only Campground for Český Krumlov
Kilometer marker : 284,9
Locality :
Weir Rechle, Český Krumlov
About the river :
weir
Campground :
Boater's Campground Spolí
What to do while you're there :
Český Krumlov
Notes :
only Campground for Český Krumlov
Kilometer marker : 284,4
Locality :
Český Krumlov
About the river :
turbulent
Access to the water by car :
yes
Campground :
no
What to do while you're there :
Český Krumlov
Kilometer marker : 284,14
Locality :
Weir U vozíčkárny, Český Krumlov
About the river :
weir
Access to the water by car :
no
Campground :
no
What to do while you're there :
Český Krumlov
Kilometer marker : 283,1
Locality :
Český Krumlov - Myší díra
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
River spa Rumyší díra
Access to the water by car :
no
Campground :
no
What to do while you're there :
Český Krumlov
Notes :
Don't give in to the temptation to cut across the canal at Rumyší díra, because there's a beautiful section of weirs and magnificent architecture on the way.
Kilometer marker : 283,0
Locality :
Weir under the church of St. Vitus in Český Krumlov, town of Český Krumlov
About the river :
the „weir retarder"
Access to the water by car :
no
Campground :
no
What to do while you're there :
Český Krumlov
Kilometer marker : 282,85
Locality :
Weir U Plášťového mostu (at the Cloak bridge) in Český Krumlov
About the river :
weir (U utopeného Pstroužka - at the drowned trout)
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
yes
Access to the water by car :
paring lot Jelenka 250 m
Campground :
no
What to do while you're there :
Český Krumlov
Kilometer marker : 282,0
Locality :
Na fortně
About the river :
rapids, concrete panels
What to do while you're there :
on the right shore is Myší díra, you can cut through the canal for about 150m and float through the town again
Kilometer marker : 282,0 - 281,0
Locality :
Český Krumlov, around the brewery and former slaughterhouse
About the river :
rocks, shallow water, rapids
Possibilities for refreshments, recommendations :
Access to the water by car :
parking lot below the post office
Campground :
no
What to do while you're there :
Český Krumlov
Kilometer marker : 269,0
Locality :
Weir Zlatá Koruna
About the river :
the „weir retarder"
Access to the water by car :
on the right shore
What to do while you're there :
Monastery Zlatá Koruna
Kilometer marker : 268,6
Locality :
Zlatá Koruna
Access to the water by car :
on the right shore
Campground :
Campground
What to do while you're there :
Monastery Zlatá Koruna
(lp)
